DIY Aeroponics – New High Pressure Aeroponics DIY Plans

It’s time for me to start a new DIY aeroponics project. Recently I added a new grow room so I needed a new system.

I have been growing with my homemade aeroponics diy system for a couple of years now and it works very well. But I decided to take what I have learned and build a new system for both my grow rooms.

Also because there are not a lot of high pressure aeroponic tutorials I thought it would be a good idea to post a how to guide. So if you are considering aeroponic growing and want a DIY aeroponics high pressure system this is for you!

Why DIY Aeroponics?


As far as I know no one is making a true high pressure aeroponic system. So if you want one it will have to be a DIY aeroponics build.

You may have seen units built from fence posts or large diameter drain pipe. These builds do not allow enough room for roots to hang down and be misted so I dont recommend building one.

I find plants grow faster in aeroponics and I get more resin and better smell too. Still, I wanted to give growing in coco a try again. It is how I started growing and I wanted to try some additives that are not compatible with aeroponics.

In my new grow closet I wanted to get off to a quick start I set up a grow in coco beds while I was planning out this system. But after a few grows I can truly say nothing beats high pressure aeroponics for growing weed.

DIY Aeroponics - aeroponic og kush buds

With a DIY aeroponics system you don’t need to spend time messing around with grow media which is a big time and money saver. Media can also bring in pests and or give them a place to live.

You use much less fertilizer and much less water which is another bonus to aeroponic growing systems.

I like to keep things simple and this will be a basic high pressure aeroponics build. People like to over complicate aeroponics and it seems to draw techie and engineering types.

You don’t need to be a NASA rocket scientist to grow aeroponic weed. All you need is the right pump, timer and misting heads. Use good clean nutes, a filter and add electricity and you are good to grow.

Just remember we are here on earth growing weed. We are not in space and not going or growing on Mars so don’t fall for all that stuff that says you have to do things NASA’s way or it’s not true aeroponics.

They didn’t invent aeroponics and their systems are designed to grow small plants like lettuce and other greens with a fast turnover.

You can add solenoids and accumulator tanks if you want but they really are not needed. I think the more complicated you make things the more likely something will break and screw things up.

If you want more info on aeroponics, its origins, future and current growing methods you can check out this article.

What Is Aeroponics? Is DIY Aeroponics Even Possible?

Aeroponics is a specialized form of hydroponics. Instead of using grow media or submerging roots in water like regular hydroponics the roots hang in the air from net pots and are sprayed or misted at intervals.

Yes I can truly say high pressure DIY aeroponics is possible, Anyone with some basic skills can build one of these bad boys.

Low Pressure Vs High Pressure DIY Aeroponics

There are 2 types of systems, high pressure and low pressure aeroponics. Both work very well but high pressure systems will give better root development and increase nutrient uptake as well as reduce the amount of nutrients needed.

The main difference between them is the pumps that are used. Low pressure systems use a high volume of water, often over 400 GPH and low pressure pumps usually are rated under 5 psi.

They can not deliver a fine droplet size but they are easier and cheaper to build. They are often built using PVC pipe or square fence posts and many of these are actually NFT/Aeroponic hybrid systems.

They are a bit cheaper to build and less likely to clog because of larger orifices. They are more forgiving and if you are a newer grower they may be a good place for you to start.

High pressure aeroponics systems are the exact opposite. It uses a pump that can deliver about 2 gph but at pressures 80 psi and above. The nozzles used can deliver a very fine mist.

Because of the higher pressures it is necessary to use specialized fittings and this is what makes these systems cost more.

Smaller sprayer orifices make clean water and nutrients absolutely essential to prevent clogging.

Plants grow very fast but things can go wrong very fast so high pressure aeroponics is not the best choice for newbies.

In this tutorial you will learn how to build an efficient yet simple DIY aeroponics high pressure system that will grow the best weed you can imagine. Before we get into the build itself we need to go over a few things.

What About Water?

Water is the most important part of any hydroponic or aeroponic system. If you already grow hydroponically you probably already know this.

You will need to use reverse osmosis water unless your tap water is very clean. If your water tests much over 100 ppm on a TDS meter, or you know it is hard or it has been softened you will need to use RO water.

I am extremely lucky to live in an area where my tap water tests at 29 ppm, but in most places it runs over 200 ppm. This also means having to add a calcium and magnesium supplement because it is not present in either my water or in RO water.

Fortunately the DIY Aeroponics system I am showing you to build doesn’t require anywhere near the amounts of water required by deep water culture, ebb and flow or other systems.

If you need RO water you can set up a small system. Some aquarium stores also sell reverse osmosis water.

Because high pressure systems use nozzles with small orifices it is crucial to keep your water clean. You will want to guard against dirt getting in the reservoir and to your nozzles.

Inline filters are available and easy to clean. I also use a 50 micron felt filter bag over my water intake.

DIY Aeroponics Pumps – Choosing The Right Pump

I really like Aquatec pumps for a number of reasons. They are reasonably priced and very sturdy. You can even run them dry, but I wouldn’t. They also are quiet. They are the only pumps of this type made in the US too.


But there are a lot of models and choosing the right one can be confusing. You don’t want the Aquatec 6800 series. These are transfer pumps and put out lower PSIs.

What you want is the Aquatec 8800 series which are booster pumps. These can be run at 130 psi and there is a model that puts out 150 psi.

DIY Aeroponics - High pressure aeroponic pump - Aquatec CDP 8800 water booster pump

They run on 24 volts so you need a transformer to run them. Some venders sell them with the transformer and some sell it separately.

Some have adjustable bypass settings and this is what you want. Pressure can be adjusted with a 1/16″ allen wrench on the front of the pump. You need to have a pressure gunge hooked up if you are going to try this.

This pump will work great for most projects and I am using it for cloning and vegging. It will run multiple flowering totes too. But for larger projects, 4 totes or more you may want this 150 psi pump. This is what I am using in my flowering totes.

Certainly the 80 psi pump will work and you can adjust the bypass on it but Aquatec says to run these pumps below 132 psi so I am guessing the larger one can run at 160 psi because it has a different diaphragm.

The more nozzles you run the more pressure drop you have so a larger pump with a higher psi rating will keep droplet size smaller.

Aeroponic Timers

You are going to need a short cycle timer that can be set to run from several seconds on to several minutes off. These are specialized and unfortunately they are not cheap.

Regular timers work on 15 minute on/off cycles and this is way too long to make them usable for your DIY Aeroponics build.

I used a digital CT 1 timer. But it is no longer available. With digital timers you can set intervals exactly and you have a read out showing you what the cycle is.

Luckily there are short cycle timers that are newer and cheaper alternatives now.

No matter what timer you choose make sure it is set to run day and night. If your timer is set to only run 12 hours you will probably wind up with dead plants.

Misting Cycles And Droplet Size

Some aeroponic growers run extremely short misting cycles like 30 seconds on or less and about 2 minutes off. If you are going to run a short cycle like this an accumulator tank will help save wear and tear on your pump.

But the pumps I use and recommend are rated for over 30,000 hours of continual use and can even be run dry.

At about $100 a pop I think it’s cheaper to replace a pump every 3 or 4 years than to create a more expensive, complicated system to protect them.

Also a malfunctioning pressure relief valve can turn an accumulator tank into a bomb.

Your pump is the life blood and heart of your DIY Aeroponics system so it is a good idea to keep a spare for back up.

If a pump dies you will have a hard time finding them locally and shipping takes time. If an emergency arises and you have to pay for overnight shipping you just about bought a new pump twice anyway.

You will want to keep some spare misting heads too so if a clog develops you can change them. I am using preassembled units as you will see later but you only need to replace the heads themselves and not the whole unit.

Also over time performance will deteriorate because of every day wear and tear. It is probably a good idea to replace nozzles yearly.

In my old system I have found 1 minute on and 5 minutes off is a good starting point. You want to get all the roots watered but you also want them to get oxygen so you want them to be only slightly damp when the next cycle begins.

You can adjust the cycle by feeling the roots inside your tote. Obviously smaller roots will need less misting time than larger mature ones.

I have been testing this DIY Aeroponics system and because I am now running 3/8 instead of 1/4 tubing and it delivers considerably more water.

I am running young seedlings with fairly small root systems and now going 45 seconds on and 5 minutes off. I am considering dropping it to 30 seconds on. I might look at increasing the off cycle a bit too.

aeroponic roots with fish boning grown in my DIY Aeroponics system

Your roots should be showing a fish bone pattern when grown in aeroponics. This White OG has it but honestly I have seen better examples.

This reinforces my idea that at the very beginning these plants were getting too much water. There are some straight roots that look more like regular hydroponic roots.

There are no hard and fast rules for cycle times so experiment and watch your plants closely. I like the idea of using longer off cycles because it is easier on the pump.

This brings us to the question of misting heads and droplet size. According to NASA 50 microns is the ideal droplet size for nutrient uptake.

This doesn’t mean that plants can’t use larger droplets though. That is why low pressure diy aeroponics can still grow excellent plants.

I use Tefen misters with droplets from 50-140 microns. I am using a 150 psi pump so I expect my droplet size to be smaller. Larger droplets are beneficial for your crop too.

As plants grow the hanging roots get pretty thick and smaller droplets would have a hard time penetrating to the center, but the larger droplets can.

DIY Aeroponics - aeroponic mist with tefen misting heads at 150 psi

If I were a plant I would want to hang my roots in this DIY aeroponics tote!

diy aeroponics mist with tefen misting headsI think my diy aeroponics system can produce a fine enough mist to grow anything. Wouldn’t you agree?

Setting Up Your Grow Room

Before you start it is always a good idea to plan for the unexpected. Where there is water there is always the potential for leaks.

Fortunately high pressure aeroponics uses much less water than other hydroponic systems. I will only be using 10 gallons but if you have ever spilled even a gallon of water you know how it can spread.

DIY Aeroponics - using pond liner for grow room floor

I lined my closet with pond liner. It is tough and durable like an inner tube. I stapled it so I have 6 inches of height which should hold well over 50 gallons of water.

Don’t be tempted to use plastic because it gets holes in it easily. With the pond liner there are no worries and you can walk on it and move things around on it. You can get it at some gardening centers and I think even Home Depot has it on a roll.

For my set up I just took some 3 gallon pots, set them in the corners and laid my boards on top of them with a space in the middle for the drains. My reservoir will sit under the boards.

base for my DIY Aeroponics totes

You’re Going To Need These Totes

DIY Aeroponics uses a commander toteHead over to Lowes and grab as many of these Centrex Plastics, LLC Commander 27-Gallon Tote with Standard Snap Lid as you need. Or get them on Amazon here

They cost $14 and are worth every penny. They are super heavy duty and measure about 30.8 inches long, 20 inches wide and about 15 inches tall.

A bit shorter in height than the original Rubbermaid totes I used but overall much bigger and about 3 times thicker.

Home Depot has a cheaper version of this tote and although they show the same picture the totes are actually different.

Theirs is smaller and has a diamond pattern on top. A hole for a 3″ net pot is slightly larger than the squares on these so I would only want to use them for 2′ pots.

You can use them with 3″ pots but I would go with the ones from Lowes because cutting out the lids will be easier.

Cutting Out The Lids

The lid has 35 squares, you can use as many or as few as you like. You can either use 2 or 3 inch net pots. I prefer the 3 inchers because the plants are more stable and don’t fall over as easily. You wont be able to use all the squares if you use 3″ pots.

I chose to do 10 per lid. I am building a 3 tote system and want 30 plants in my 2′ x 8′ grow closet. For large plants you may want less but you can always add more later and you can plug unused spaces with a net pot and insert or even a party cup.

It is important to realize that a 3″ net pot will fall right through a 3″ hole. On my last project I used a 2 7/8″ hole saw and it worked perfectly.

However for the squares on this lid I used a 2 3/4″ hole saw I got at Lowes. The reason being that the squares are raised and the larger saw removes more of the sidewall than I like. But the 2 3/4″ hole saw leaves a hole a bit too snug.

Here is a tip for drilling smoother holes. Drill until the pilot bit goes down and the teeth on the hole saw just begin to grab. Then reverse your drill and you will get a much smoother hole cut.

deburring toolSo I reamed them out with a deburring tool. Couldn’t find one at Lowes, Home Depot may have them or you can get them on Amazon here.

It will get rid of sharp edges, smooth out your cuts and make your net pots fit like a glove.

The perfect size hole saw for this lid would be 2 13/16″ but I am not even sure anyone makes them. Don’t sweat it though any of the other 2 will work.

If you are using 2″ pots you will probably want a 1 3/4″ hole saw and they are available at Lowes.

One thing I found was that you need to have enough clearance between the hole and the reinforcing that goes around the inside edge of the lid, especially on the ends of the middle row.

If you drill too close the rim of the net pot wont go all the way down so make sure you drill as close to the outside edge of the square as you can. Please don’t ask how I know this! Here is a pic of my finished lids.

DIY Aeroponics tote lids with holes cut out

Drilling Out The Tote

I have drilled a hole on the side of the tote for a 3/8 bulk head using a 5/8 inch spade bit. This is where the feed line will come into the tote.

I like to use a 3/8 inch stem elbow on the bulk head. The 3/8 tubing I am using is flexible, but I feel like using it makes it easier to hook up to the tote and helps keep pressure off the bulkhead.

I like to use a 3/8 inch stem elbow on the bulk head

You are going to need to drill a 1 1/8″ hole for a drain. That works for my 1/2 inch fittings anyway. I am using 3/4 inch fittings this time and they need a slightly larger hole, but a few passes around with the deburring tool makes them just right.

Probably it’s best to measure yours because there is no standard size and each manufacturer is different.

I am putting mine on the bottom of the totes. I am using a reservoir directly underneath my totes. The totes will be resting on 2 2 x 8 boards spaced 2″ apart on the center.

They will drain into my reservoir that is directly underneath them. You can drain out the side too if you want.

Here is a top view looking into the tote. You can see because of the way these totes are molded that you have to offset the drain if you are coming out the bottom.

Don’t panic, I will cover the misting heads and set up further down in this tutorial.

DIY Aeroponics inside of tote showing bottom drain

I am doing this partly to save space but also because the tote bottoms need to be higher than the water line in your reservoir to drain properly.

botanicare ebb and flow fittingI built my old aeroponic system drains with 1/2″ tubing and fittings and had a few clogs so this time I am using 3/4″ drains. These are the bulkheads I am using.

They have a barb on the outside and are threaded on the inside. You should be able to get them at any hydro store or you can get them here.

The threaded inside is nice because you can add a fitting inside if you want to retain some water in the tote bottoms.

This acts as a safety for your plants in the event of a power outage and can keep roots out of your drain lines too.

The truth is no matter how tall your tote is the roots will eventually hit bottom anyway. So forget all that crap you read about roots having to totally hang in the air.

Setting Up The DIY Aeroponics Misting Heads And Totes

I am using tefen misters and have found a really cool set up for my nozzles. The nozzles come in a pre threaded tee with quick connect fittings built in. They also come with a mounting bracket.

DIY Aeroponics misting nozzle assembly

They were designed for misting produce and are made by a company called ProDew.

One of the things I like about these misting heads is that they are dripless.

Obviously supermarkets want their produce moist but don’t want water dripping on their customers.

My old style misters would take a few seconds to start spraying and would drip a bit once the pump was off.

But with these bad boys the second the pump kicks on they are spraying and the second it shuts off they stop.

The nozzles can be shut off entirely and the built in wrench makes removing them a snap.

Before I would have to reach in with a wrench or vice grips to change or clean my nozzles.

Now I can unscrew them without any tools.

I found them in Amazon store called Pro Water Parts and they are being sold singly or in packs of ten.

They come in black or white. They are only available to use 3/8 tubing.

Lately these seem to move around on Amazon. Pro Water parts inventory changes but you can find them singly or in 10 packs.

This store also has most of the fittings you will need and RO stuff too. I have been buying replacement nozzles from them for about a year.

These are extremely easy to hook up too. I mounted them inside the totes 3 to a side and spaced fairly evenly apart.

You can get these Tefen misting heads. You may need to trim the white filter down so they fit the misting assembly. Dont buy the ones that show a wire strainer sticking out. They wont fit. Dont ask me how I know.


These really are great misting assemblies. Unfortunately they can be hard to find because the sellers keep changing their listings but they can be found on the Pro Water Parts site. Search for nozzles.

Currently both stores are selling the white assemblies which have lower gallons per hour than the black ones. You can swap out nozzles if you want higher GPH.

Over time I have reduced my timing from 1 on 5 off to 15-30 seconds on and 5 off and I would recommend the white or blue nozzles at this point.

I have found after a few years pump pressure begins to drop and that results in more water flow so I am using a smaller nozzle with lower GPA.

Running an accumulator could solve this problem and allow shorter on/off cycles and save wear and tear on your pump. Of course this makes for a more complicated build and I wanted a simple plug and play system to get you up and running.

I don’t run an accumulator set up at this time because my grow space is so limited but if you build this aeroponic system you might want to consider adding one or upgrading at some point.

Here is a pic of a typical setup. Since your pump runs on 24V you can use a 24V solenoid and splice into your transformer if you don’t want to use a separate 12V power supply.

high pressure diy aeroponics accumulator setup

Push To Connect Fittings And Tubing

Everything in this build is 3/8″ tubing and fittings which makes set up easier. The pump I recommended has 1/4 fittings too but I wouldn’t use them.

Just stick with 3/8 outside diameter tubing. It is about $20 for a 100 foot roll of LDPE tubing so its pretty cheap. Just make sure it is rated for at least 150 psi.

When you insert the tubing into the push to connect fittings make sure it goes all the way in. The teeth inside will grab the tubing before it is seated all the way in.

Push on it and you should feel it hit a stop. If you don’t get it all the way in it may leak or even blow out of the fitting.

There are several companies that make the fittings but John Guest Speedfit fittings are the best and the originator of push to connect fittings.

In my previous build I had 4 misters on the short end of the tote. I used double headed reptile misters and because they protrude out a couple of inches the area behind them was relatively dry.

The misters on the opposite side didn’t penetrate the area that well either so I lost a couple of seedlings in the corners in my old system. This set up is a vast improvement with much better coverage and a lot more mist.

I used a tee connected to the bulkhead and ran a loop of misters. I like to use a closed loop system because it provides even pressure to all misting heads. This is how parks and golf courses get such even water distribution over large areas.
DIY Aeroponics closed loop system
You can just come directly from the bulkhead without the tee and run them in a line if you want. You will need a 3/8 plug for the last misting head in the line.

Each tote has an independent supply line connected to the outside of the bulkhead. I used a 4 way cross for this or you could stack tees and do the same thing.

You can also run a single line that tees off to each tote. The last fitting in the line should be an elbow or a tee with a plug in it. If you are building only one tote just run your tubing straight into the bulkhead.

Below is a picture of my set up. I have a line from the pump going to an inline filter, a tee with a pressure gauge and then the cross.

I used a stem elbow on top, connected that to a stem elbow on the middle tote’s bulkhead. The other 2 lines run to the left and right totes.

high pressure diy aeroponics supply linesI have a 10 gallon mixing tub beneath the totes which drain into it with 3/4 inch tubing. Inside the tote is a 50 micron filter bag.

Into this I inserted a piece of 3/4″ PVC pipe and a cap with a 3/8″ hole drilled in it. I did this because the tubing wants to curl upward. This way the tubing is straight and at the bottom of the mixing tub well below the water level.

 Successful DIY Aeroponics Tip – Keep Out The Dirt

Keeping dirt from getting in your reservoir is the key to success for your aeroponics project. Misters have small openings and even with the filters they have clogging can become an issue if things are not kept clean.

When I started I was using felt filter bags. They worked pretty good but I did not like the metal rings and sometimes some fuzz from them would show up on my filters. I recommend using filters made for aquariums now.

You will want to clean these after every grow or the pores can get clogged from your nutrients.You can even throw them in the dishwasher or washing machine without soap.

I started using 10 micron bags but found them too fine. 50 micron bags are a better choice.

CT 1 short cycle timer in useHere is some wiring and my CT 1 short cycle timer. I have been using this timer for 2 years now and it has never skipped a beat. DIY Aeroponics totes with 3 inch net pots totes are a snug fit in my grow closet no room to spare between these totesSpace is extremely tight in this grow closet. In fact these 3 totes fit in with less than 1/8″ to spare. I measured carefully so I knew they would just fit. I have to tip the tote ends up to remove the lids. Fortunately that should only be necessary between grows.  DIY Aeroponics running the misting heads on inside the tote. DIY Aeroponics misting head assembly at workPlenty of mist inside these  DIY aeroponics totes. There is even more when the lids are on.

young white og seedlings in my diy aeroponics system young headbanger seedlings in my high pressure aeroponic systemSome young White OG and Headbanger seedlings settling in to their new homes. I will be posting a grow journal on my DIY aeroponics system and the plants you see in these pictures.

Aeroponic Nutrients

You will need to use clean nutrients with your DIY aeroponics system. If you are in to organic growing this system is not for you. Don’t use molasses or any organic based products or your system will clog.

There are many clean nutrient brands you can choose from. I have had good luck with Dutch Masters and am currently trying Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur  A&B. It seems pretty clean and so far so good, but I don’t think I would want to use some of their additives. Some people really like Canna Aqua too.

Many nutrient manufacturers say their nutrients are suitable for hydroponics but remember that aeroponics is different and some are not really clean enough to use in your system.

You don’t want to use Heavy 16 in these systems even though they say you can use it in hydro. Also most of the Aptus line is not compatible.

RO water has all the minerals removed, and this means you will probably need to use a cal/mag supplement.

Some nutes like Dutch Masters add this and some don’t because they assume it is in your water already. If you are growing an OG strain you will need to add supplemental cal/mag regardless of your base nutes.

I like CaliMagic from General Hydro but there are others. It has more calcium and magnesium than other brands which have a lot more nitrogen. That is something you might not want when in flower.

Finally you are going to need a TDS meter and pH pen. You need to monitor your pH and nutrient levels. Your plant’s roots are hanging in air and have no buffer. This is what makes aero so successful.

Plants don’t need to forage because everything is right there. But it is a double edged sword because if things get too far out of whack things can go south in a hurry.

A 24/7 nutrient monitor has probes for pH, ppms and temperature that go in your reservoir. They are much more accurate than hand held instruments and you can tell at a glance what is going on in your reservoir.

I could not live without them! Read my review at:

24/7 nutrient monitor

You will want to check your ppm and pH daily to avoid lock outs or other problems. I usually check mine at lights on and it takes very little time to do manually but you could install a nutrient monitor in your reservoir instead.

I also use this meter. It is very accurate and easy to use. Sometimes I mix nutes separate from the reservoir and this is great for that.

Your plants won’t need as much nutrient so never mix according to the label. To be safe I would start at 1/4 the recommended rate and work up from there. Most people tend to over fertilize and this is one case where less is more.

I hope this DIY aeroponics tutorial has been helpful to you and inspired you to give high pressure aeroponics a try. If it has please like and share this post so others can learn from it too.

90 thoughts on “DIY Aeroponics – New High Pressure Aeroponics DIY Plans”

  1. Hey just wanted to know if you ran into any problems with this set up. or things to pay close attention to for it i am constructing this set up after doing tons of research on what the plants will need and this happen to be a set i would have done i like the sprayers on a close loop on the side rather then a lot of people put the misters on the bottom. and or top down.

    • I think the system works very well as do misters on the side. The idea is to fill the tote with mist and with the roots hanging down I feel like they get more exposure with misters in the middle.

      The only problem I have had is with the intake. I started using 10 micron bags but noticed they can start to restrict water flow over time that is why I use 50 micron now. Even 100 would probably be OK. It is really important to make sure your intake stays under water and is open. The tubing is curved and wants to turn upward naturally and can also stick to the side of the filter bag. What I do is use a length of 3/4 pipe with a cap on one end and a tee on the other to keep it straight. I drill a 3/8 hole in the cap and push the tubing down until in is almost bottoming out on the tee. This keeps the tubing straight and below water and there are 2 openings just in case one sticks to the filter bag.

      • Awesome thanks for the tip since i live in a hot climate in the summer times (LasVegas) how much does the water temp. affect the grow? Like what is the highest your res got to where it became a problem? and also should i use a dutch master or a hydro guard since it might be a little warmer

        • Water temps are not an issue like they are with regular hydroponics. They need cooler water because it holds more oxygen and the roots are sitting in it but with aeroponics the roots are already sitting in air. I honestly don’t pay much attention to water temps and one of my closets does get up into the 90s during summer without any problems. I don’t think you will need to add anything. I am not familiar with hydroguard but I hear it’s alive which means it probably a culture and has potential to clog your system.You can’t use a lot of stuff out there because its made for soil growers and dwc. Use clean nutes stay away from all the expensive additives they cause more problems than they solve. If you are really concerned use H2O2. The only thing I ever add besides my regular nutes is Drip Clean to prevent build up inside the tubing and misters.

  2. Thanks Steve your awesome! i got the set up running it mists amazing. i put my new seedlings in it. What is your recommend cycles for the statges? Right now i have it set to 30s on 4min off. seems like the off period could be a bit longer the bottom of the net pots stay dripping after the 4 min. Also im using fox farms products the grow big and cal mag and some orca to begin not sure if the big bloom would work its kinda a thicker liquid i might give that a try when the plants get a little older.

    • Glad it’s working for you! I started at about that rate but decided to just run 1 on 5 off. Things may seem a bit wet now but the root mass is going to grow quickly and so I wouldn’t go any longer than that and you may want to increase on time as plants grow. Pay attention to the corners as I have found they can be drier sometimes.

      I personally would not add Orca or anything like that because it may clog your system. You can’t run organics and I think I said before most of those things are for soil. Even some stuff they say is OK for hydro is not good for aeroponic systems. Experimenting is good and that’s how you learn and grow. If you do decide to use stuff like that keep a close eye on your misters. I have tried a lot of supplements and most are over rated and I really think all you need is clean base nutes and cal mag to grow the best crops ever.

        • No I haven’t. The roots are hanging in air and there is plenty of oxygen available which is why air o ponics works so well. You could put them in the res to keep things stirred up if you want. Won’t hurt but doubt it will help. All I can say is try it. I would really recommend just doing a straight run with just base nutes and cal/mag and the system as it is. Take notes too! This will give you a base point. That way when you change things in future grows you will be able to tell what effects they have.

          • Def. will be keeping a journal and when you say base nutes i take you are talking about the dutch master gold? i just came off doing hydro so i used the fox farm trio what would you suggest?

          • Dutch Master Gold or Canna Aqua both work well for aeroponics. Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur is good too but don’t buy all their additives. I am a bit different than most because I don’t use a veg formula. I find that flowering nutes work just fine and I use CaliMagic at 4-5 ml a gallon to bump up nitrogen a bit early on.

          • Cool ive heard good things about dutch masters ill pick some of that up . The plants are growing nicee thanks for the help hard to find good info on the web

          • I have found the DM to be clean and also seems to be more pH stable than others. I adjust my pH to 5.8 after mixing and it pretty much stays there while a lot of other bases seem to keep rising.

      • ok cool i picked some of it up today. in case a mister does clog how do you clean it do you just cycle some h202 or bleach through it to unclog it then put back in the enviroment

        • You can use a soft toothbrush on the filter. I haven’t had a problem with the actual misting head but have seen some products cause a build up on the filter itself. H202 will break up some organic matter but it is really more of a bacteriacide.

          I use Dripclean at 4ml/gal in my res as a preventative and you can use it to soak your nozzles too. It is designed to keep your system clean and also provides some extra P & K. You can get it from this link if it’s not available locally

  3. Hey Man grow is going really well!!! i have some leaves that look wrinkly not sure if you have seen that before i think its because of Ph fluctuation it was at 6.4 and i brought it back down to about 5.8. Also i was wondering about the water at the bottom of the tote my roots look really nice! but its some standing water i rather it not be any have you ever thought about putting mesh about 2 inches above the bottom so they can drain off to the bottom or you wouldn’t worry to much about that?

    • I wouldn’t worry about the water on bottom as it is being refreshed and aerated from above. Basically the bottom is really like an NFT system. I have the same thing and the roots always look great. This can also help your plants in event of a power outage or clogged nozzles because it provides a small reservoir for the plants. I have actually considered putting a riser in the drain to raise the water level a bit but so far unsure if it would really be beneficial so haven’t done it.

      Not sure about the wrinkly leaves. I don’t get them and occasionally my pH will go to 6.2 for a while. So maybe its pH or maybe something else.

      • Roots sitting in water will become hydro roots, which are nowhere near as efficient as genuine aeroponic roots. Most folks that build high pressure aero setups run too many nozzles and/or use excessive mist timing so the results are closer to hydro than aero. Just to clarify, the main purpose of an accumulator is to increase the level of control you have over the pressure and flow. Taking the strain off the pump is just a bonus.

        • I agree and I am not down on accumulators but just trying to keep it simple. With the right timer you could run 1-3 seconds on every 2 or 3 minutes if you want without an accumulator but the pump would probably wear out sooner.

  4. Thanks for the reply ok cool . i think it was a PH issue im sure it got to a lot higher then 6.4 i put it back down and a couple days later the new leaves where not coming in wrinkled anymore.

  5. I found your setup info over at the other site ( and I ordered the same Tefen nozzles, female to female adapters and the John Guest stem adapters.

    I was surprised when they arrived that I can’t get them to thread together more than say 1 turn. Closer inspection shows that the John Guest stem adapters are 1/8″ NPTF and the Tefen female to females are 1/8″ NPT (no F). A little Googling turns up that they are slightly different and should never be used together as they will likely leak. How did you get it to work?

    • First Aeroponic.Net is a website of mine that I built specifically for aeroponics. Sorry if you are having problems. If you read the article below the threads are basically the same but can be tightened with a wrench and or using Teflon tape. They shouldn’t leak even if you only have a full turn anyway.

      I don’t use this hook up and I found a similar system online somewhere. So I put it together because it is the cheapest way I could find for someone to hook up the nozzles if on a budget. If you read my articles you will note I use the 3/8 threaded tees with the tefen nozzles and that is the best way to go. If you are really unhappy with them Amazon is very good about returns.

      Hope this helps



      NPT Vs. NPTF Taper Pipe Threads

      The two most common taper pipe threads used in the United States are NPT and NPTF. Applications range from electrical conduits and hand railings to high-pressure pipe lines that carry gas or caustic fluids. NPT threads are for mechanical or low-pressure air or fluid applications and require the use of sealing compounds like Teflon tape, to provide the seal. When the application is more critical, and the sealing compound may fail due to high heat or pressure, NPTF Dryseal threads are used. This mechanical seal is produced by the mating and slight crushing of the threads when a wrench is applied to tighten the fittings.

      Visually, both threads appear to be identical. Both have a ¾” taper over one foot of length. Both have the same pitch diameter at the top of the hole of internal threads or end of the pipe on external threads, and both have the same thread lengths or depths. However, there is a subtle difference in the thread form that differentiates the two. The major and minor diameters of both threads differ slightly. With NPT threads, after a wrench is applied, slight spaces at the major and minor diameters may exist that would allow the assembly to leak and therefore a sealing compound is used to fill any gaps. On the other hand, NPTF threads are designed to ensure that sufficient crushing of the entire thread form will take place to produce a mechanical seal.

      How does the difference in thread forms effect the tooling used to produce NPT and NPTF threads? Taps are available for both NPT and NPTF threads having the appropriate form to produce each type of thread. Since NPT threaded parts require sealing compounds, it is acceptable to use an NPTF tap for NPT applications. However, NPT taps cannot be used for NPTF applications, as it will likely produce a thread that will leak. The same is true of external threads. In most cases the tap drill is the same for both forms.

      The most significant difference in the two threads is the inspection required. Since sealing compounds will be used for NPT threads, only a single plug with a step, known as an L1 plug (internal thread) or a single thin L1 ring (external) are required to check size. However, since the taper and the position of major and minor diameters are so critical to the sealing of NPTF threads, the additional threads in the assembly known as L2 and L3, and the major and minor diameters are inspected with either special plug or ring gages.

      • I see, thanks … don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining, just simply trying to understand. You’ve got a lot of great information here, so I am trying to set it up the same. I will take a look at the 3/8″ stuff. How much pressure drop off the Aquatec pump can I expect by going to 3/8″? Thanks very much!

        • I use all 3/8 in one system with 18 heads and an aquatec pump rated at 160psi and get 140 psi by my gauge so there shouldn’t be much drop off.

          The reason I like the 3/8 tees is its just one fitting instead of 3. You have mounting brackets for it too. I think the less fittings the less pressure loss. Also they come with nuts for the misters so they are very easy to remove and swap out. I really think these are best but I think you would be fine with what you have.

          Basically the threads are the same but one is designed to be tighter fitting and leakless. However I think you might want to try tightening with a wrench if they leak with only a full turn but I don’t believe they will. Other folks have bought these and no one has said they had problems with them so if money is an issue give them a go.

      • I dropped by Bomb Depot and found some Watts 1/8″ MIP to 1/4″ quick connect; I am pretty sure MIP is the same thing as NPT, so I think this will work. It’s not a stem adapter, but I can just use a short piece of tubing instead. Getting close, can’t wait to get going!

  6. Good day Steve! I saw your reply on my comment. Thank you for your quick reply. May I know why you chose the mister orientation to be attached on the sides and not from the below that it sprays directly up? I’m learning a lot from your site. Thanks a bunch!

      • You don’t have to have 3 rows although I do and it works fine. You can do 2 rows or even 1 row if you want. I usually only use every other hole. The size of the plant you are growing is a consideration too. I grow OG strains and they are tall, upright and narrow so I can pack them in. If you are growing a bushy strain you would want less plants. Just leave a net pot with an insert or a party cup in the holes you are not using.

    • If you put them pointing up and on bottom the roots will smother the misters. Eventually the roots will hit bottom and continue growing there. The idea is to fill the chamber with mist. Putting them on the sides makes sure young plants as well as more mature ones will get the coverage they need.

      • You have a point there. I saw the Tefen misters from the link you gave. May i know how many times have you changed yours because of clogs? or the frequency? It’s kind of expensive. 60 usd?

        Thank you for accommodating my questions. Is there anyway that I could reach your aside from this website? any social media accounts? Thanks steve! You are doing a great job here.

        • They are not just the misters. Those cost about $15. The ones for $60 come with a push to connect tee so all you do is connect them with tubing. You can also shut them off and they are easier to remove for cleaning. I really haven’t had to change them. I test them out after each grow and if they look like they are not throwing out a nice mist pattern I clean the ends with a toothbrush. My first set up ran for a year and a half with no cleaning at all. When I did clean them all they had was a bit of lint from my filter bag.

          If you don’t want to spend a lot of money you can try a low pressure system. Much larger holes so less chance of clogging. Easy to build, a bit cheaper and results are about the same. You will get nicer roots, better nutrient absorption and use less nutrient with high pressure. But if you have never grown in hydro or are new to growing I would start with a low pressure system.

 is my Facebook page. I need to fix the email on this site to because it doesn’t seem to be working.

  7. Hi there, what cycle do you use for new clones? As they don’t have any roots i ‘m not sure if i should go 24/7 or just usual 7s-4min. I used low pressure for my clones before so high pressure cloning is new to me 😉 Thanks and bye, Lex

    • I use HPA for flowering but I use LPA for my clones most of the time. I don’t use really short cycles for plants or clones. I run 1 minute on and 5 off for everything and it seems to work well. I am not a big fan of short cycles, I see no real advantage to them and a much greater potential for screw ups.

      The thing I found with clones is keeping them too wet can actually slow rooting. I usually start my clones in rockwool and once they have some roots I set them in my totes. I have had good luck with starting bare clones in HP but in LP with the cubes they actually can get too wet. Hope this helps.

  8. I tried HPA for a few years (sans tank). My problem is where I live the room stays too hot ~ 8 months a year. Unless I am willing to spend money on elec to keep room temp ~ 70- 80*s, the RH inside the root chamber got too warm to develop root hairs, which grow on the fish bones.

    What I found was when my on time was short < 5 seconds with ~ 5 minute pause, the root hairs would show up (they look like cotton candy) Without them in abundance, you might as well go F & D, which is far easier

    My 2 cents

    • I’m in Washington so pretty cool most of the time so temps are not much of an issue. Mostly my res is in the 60s to mid 70s I keep my res under my totes so being shaded helps.

      I have seen the fuzzies you are talking about. I just settle for nice fishboning. I just am not sure how much difference it really makes to overall yield. I have noticed people can get fanatical about their systems and their roots but it seems they forget they are growing bud and what happens up top is far more important.

      I agree there are easier ways to grow weed and some may even yield as well. I developed a system that works for me just as you have. We all need to experiment and find our own way, that’s how we grow and learn. Glad you made it work for you!

  9. Hi Steve The new writeup looks great been really busy & havn’t looked in a while . As u know I use a res & solenoid with the metal orbit nozzles .016 , been lazy & other that changing solution have done no maint …no issues works like it did the day it started . A lot of questions about cycle times I have landed at 1 sec on 60 off …my res is outside of my tent & my nozzles don’t shut off instantly so it has the effect of double …the growth is off the chart …Amazing . My major error was fertilizer… too much ..the point you make of “less is more” can’t be stressed enough anyway “hats off to the chef” …about the inkbird timers I don’t think the contacts would take cycling the pump wo failing I hav’nt looked at the specs on mine but I’m sure its under 1 amp …Peace keep it going brother

    • Hi Tom

      I have not experimented much with short cycles. My space is very limited and I dont have room for an accumulator tank. I rent so have to be very stealthy about my grows and cant have anything outside my closets. My thought is running short cycles without a tank and solenoid would probably put a lot of strain on the pump.

      I just stick to 1 min on and 5 off mostly for flowering plants. Maybe 30-45 seconds for clones or young seedlings. It is too much according to some but I would think there is benefit in letting roots partly dry and being exposed to some air for longer periods.

      As plants grow the root mass thickens and I am not convinced 1 second is enough time to penetrate the center of the roots. Not getting fuzzies but I do get nice fishboning and that’s all I think I really need.

      I have looked at those Orbit nozzles and they look interesting. Glad your grow system is working for you!

      Less is definitely more. Plants in soil or coco have a natural buffer but with aero everything goes right to the roots. I made the same mistake at first. Most mixes even those used in DWC turned out to be way too hot for aero.

      Stay Green

      • HI Steve I did 3 seconds on 5 mins off my roots were like spun white cotton but I wasn’t getting the growth I thought I should thru trial & error I came to what I use now I have 12 plants in 4’×4′ tent they consume a little over a gallon a day of solution & my growth is unreal …I always looked w envy at the growth others claimed but I never got at this time my plants are a little out of control …not really a bad thing ….the cycle I use would smoke a pump wo a accumulation tank …my system is as simple as it gets I use a surflow pump that cuts out at 110 psi a stainless solenoid w the 100 micron screen after it the solenoid takes .2 amps at 12v the ink bird timer is the only 110v item in my system …I have found plastic tee’s & generic nozzles like the orbits on ebay for $1.50 ea. I would like to sketch up the design of my system as it could be built for little cash depending on your scrounging ability ….the pumps can be had for 50-60 the solenoid 20 , the timer 25 filters & nozzles a little plumbing ..Viola …everybody tunes different but the framework can be had wo being a rocket scientist …the ink bird timers are simple two 110v power wires & a set of normal open contacts for the 12v hot to the solenoid …most of the issue is there’s no information about running this kind of grow setup …hope this is of some value & not just confusion

        • Definitely not confusion. I get it and I am definitely no rocket scientist. One of my biggest beef is the R S who confuse and intimidate new growers. Like Einstein said: Any fool can make things complicated, it takes a genius to make them simple.

          I am going to do some remodeling after this grow and may have room for an accumulator tank afterwards. Can you add an image to your post? Also what size accumulator? I have looked and most smaller ones are rated for lower PSI. Have you thought about adding a pressure relief valve or do you like having a potential bomb in your grow tent? Kidding but I do have concerns.

          • Hi steve My tank is a 2 gallon from a r.o. system it is tested at 200 psi witch the shurflow can’t do but I put a tee in & inst a relief valve I got from amazon that is in my res so I wouldn’t have a mess if it happened do I post a image? I don’t see it …I can send to a email if you want …you’ll like it theres just not much to it …I use a small 12v bilge pump to return waste to the res …I had horrible root rot probs w my res in the grow chamber but now my res is 68 deg & no rot my ph stabilized at 5.5….had a idea about co2 to the roots I want to try it would overflow into the upper chamber & circulate w the fan just a tank & reg , solenoid into the same timer as the nutes ? ….off the wall right? have the parts around just gotta hook it up

          • I will have to look into how to post an image but know others have in the past. Problem is I don’t see what you see when I am logged in. Will get back to you on it. I thought about co2 to the roots but could not find any info on if they can take it up through the roots. Google h2o2 for hydro. Peroxide is good for root rot or as a preventative.

            I checked and you can add an image by URL so you will need to upload it to somewhere like Flicker or anywhere you can generate a URL for it and paste the URL in to your comment and it will show up.

  10. Hi Steve if the pic came thru its pretty much the same as yours the black box at the bottom is a 10 amp 12v dc led power supply pretty sure you know what everything else is …the shurflo pump has a pressure adjustment screw in the end that can be adjusted up to 110 psi as I said the ro tanks are pressure tested at 200 psi & the shureflo won’t do it so no bomb threat …when I moved my res out of my tent I had to have a sump & pump wo all the pain & experimenting I did I bought the smallest bilge pump ..for boats …I could find it has a float built in its 12v & is off the map dependable & ……its cheap . The power draw of my system is under 1 amp 110v … VIOLA!!!! no tomato pics sorry

      • Hi Steve Thats a cool setup too . I use the shurflo pumps as the pressure switch is built in & adjustable I used the 100 micron screen you turned me on to after the solenoid instead of before the pump , I use the 50 micron bag filter in my res to prefilter, the lextrol tanks are bottom feed & I can’t say there is any pro or con of that I just had mine from putting a 4 gallon in my kitchen so it was free , my logic of filter placement was that the tanks tend to make “flakes” that will plug nozzles & weather its luck or?? I’m on crop 4 w no maint & have not clogged 1 …awesome simple system too….many questions on nutrients for hpa very little info available about it ….I use dry powders it takes 3 level teaspoons to make 7 gallons at about 750 ppm & that seems to be the upper limit …soooo easy to overdo it when measuring out it seems such a tiny amount …I know your page is about making a system but its discouraging for newbies to go to the trouble of setting it up & not get expected results …it was for me …I’m no expert by any means but will help if I can….I went to led’s because of heat probs but didn’t get the flowering that I had w HID’S so I hooked my HID’S back up but put them on a separate timer & run them 2 off 1 on & the led’s at 12 x 12 seems like it did wonders ….I think I got way off subject again

        • What part of the set up was hard for you? Did you buy the parts I recommended AND BUILD IT AS SHOWN? The nozzles I use are expensive but dripless which means no lag waiting for pressure to build up. I like your system but I intentionally avoided short cycles because I wanted to simplify the build by avoiding an accumulator or solenoid.

          I use dutch master or canna but may try some jacks. My filter bag is in the res with the intake inside it. As long as nothing gets in the bag there will not be anything to clog your nozzles because all solution in the res is pulled through the bag. I have been running this system for years now and I get great results.

          I am testing PLC lights which are 250w COB LEDs and so far it looks like they are doing the job but hanging on to my HPS just in case.

  11. Thanks for the great article. I am in the process of finishing a cooled-fogponic system, and just ordered the recommended components from your list to build a hpa. Just for grins, I will try a grow with identical plants in both, and compare.

    From everything I have gleaned online, the root temperature is highly critical. I am also very curious as to the water consumption level comparison between systems.

    One thing I might have overlooked, is how are you supplying oxygen to the chambers? Does the system rely on the released oxygen of the atomization to deliver a fresh supply? I wonder if adding a simple air pump circuit might make for an even greater yield..

    • I have not had problems with root temperature because I live in a very moderate climate and res temps rarely get much above 70 degrees. I think it is less critical than in a DWC system where the roots are submerged. Higher temps mean water holds less oxygen but in aeroponics the roots are hanging in air so I think it is less critical. That said if you have a lot of heat to deal with you may want to add a chiller.

      Water consumption is dependent on the plants unless you are thinking about a drain to waste system. Pretty low at first and pretty low to almost none as plants finish. But in full flower plants in my totes can drink a couple of gallons a day. If humidity is low in your grow room plants will drink more too.

      Aeroponics literally means working air. The totes are not air tight so there will always be air in them surrounding the roots, and air from the mist evaporating. I doubt you would gain anything by trying to add additional air to your system but you could try it. I have heard of people aerating their reservoir and they saw no difference.

      I don’t know much about fogponics so couldn’t say one would be better than the other but my guess is there wont be much difference in yield between the 2 systems. Glad you found the article helpful and good luck on your builds.

  12. For anyone interested..

    Not sure exactly how to post images on here, but I have some detailed information from Tefen on their nozzle testing in PDF/jpeg form. On the 22-120 nozzles, their testing at 4 bar (58 psi), and at a height of 75mm (3″), shows a range of 32 – 100 micron size droplets being formed over a 160mm (6.3″) fan size. The closer to the center of the mister being the smallest particles, the outside being the largest. Unfortunately, there is not testing for other pressure ratings.

    I am curious as to the output with higher values. Being that flow increases by ~28%, from .142 l/min to .182 l/min, and pressure increases ~50%, from 4 bar (58 psi) to 6 bar (87 psi), as well as considering that higher pressure to a given volume renders smaller droplets, it is clear that smaller, and more plentiful, droplets are being created.

    I suppose the answer lies in comparing the mean size of output droplet, and how it relates to the individual plant.

    • I try to run mine at over 100 psi. Cant measure micron size but it is a very fine mist with a few larger droplets mixed in. I get nice fishboning but not those little fuzzies which may be due to running too long a cycle. I was running 1 minute on and 5 off and have cut it to 30 sec on and may go to 15. I don’t have space for an accumulator and to save wear and tear on the pumps I keep longer off times. I try to keep things simple and not obsess about droplet size. I am trying to grow weed not droplets so as long as the roots look healthy I am happy. Really not sure how you would upload a photo either but I know people have.

  13. Have you viewed your pressure gauge while the misters are in action? If the pump as shown on the Amazon link can keep over 100psi, with 18 of the 22-120 nozzles, then it is grossly being under-rated by Aquatec. Their chart shows that at 100 psi, it can deliver 1.1 li/min, whereas the nozzles at 6 bar (87 psi) flow .182 li/min. Multiply .182 x 18, and 3.27 li/min is the gross draw. That means the pump is performing at more than 3x specification, which is incredible!!

    At the end of the day, you are right… it is about growing plants. The science is fun too…

    • I have several pumps that I found on Amazon rated at 150 psi not sure if they are still being sold but aquatec made a high pressure head for some pumps.When I got them new I was getting 120 psi with 18 misters. The problem is over time these pumps put out less psi. I think this might be due to the diaphragm stretching. So now I am at about 80psi with the same pump.

      • Steve, could you let me know what the marking is on your nozzles? I just did a trial with the 8800 Aquatec pump, 10 misters, and the max psi I was able to get was 80. I’m thinking maybe I have different nozzles. That would also explain how your pump is able to run 18 at 80.

        • The ones in front of me are 0.7-80 and I really think they are all the same and Tefen just color codes them, but I could be wrong. Well my pump was able to run 18 at 100-120 psi but it was also rated at 150 psi. I thought the drop in my pressure might be due to the diaphragm stretching or wearing out. I checked some old ones and the numbers are the same. Are you using the tees? I think you might get higher pressure with them because they are dripless so start immediadely.You can try adjusting the bypass on the pump with a 1/16 allen wrench. There is an adjustment screw on the front of the pump. Even 80 psi will grow great plants. Droplets don’t have to be 50 micron or less to get good crops.

  14. Yep, mine read 22-120. I am getting crazy water output, but the pump can’t keep up with the volume. I am also getting wicked pulsing in the pump to nozzle circuit which might be from a restricted flow (I was thinking of removing my 100 filter as a test), or that as the pump valves close, small negative pressures are created, which then bang into the forward pushing flow. This type of “resonance” is actually a very common problem with large CC injectors in cars that do not have dampers built in. One thing I can surmise is that with 10 .17l/m nozzles running, when Aquatec claims their pump can deliver 1 l/m at 80 psi, they are wrong. It is actually delivering a bit over 1.7 l/m, which is over 2 x their rating. Pretty damn good!

    The 07-80 pushes 0.047 l/m, where the 22-120 is .17 l/m. Now the math is making sense. I am going to get some replacement nozzles, and give it another go. The water output was just plain ridiculous. Within 3-5 seconds, my drain was pouring.

    With regard to Tefen nozzles in general, each color nozzle has the same range of ~20-~140 micron droplets, but have different fan shapes, velocities, and flow rates. The 07-80 is a 80 degree arc fan, where the 22-120 is a 120 degree arc. They also vary in droplet size delivery extending from center to edge (measured in a bell curve type of shape with the center of the nozzle having the smallest droplets, and the edges having the largest)

    In theory, if a system using 22-120 misters is only run for a couple of seconds, or even less, then overall water output to roots can be limited to equal a system using 07-80 misters. But… if the dwell time of pump prime is considered, where low pressures are present until pressure is built, the “on-time” would be almost exclusively low pressure, thus having undesirably large droplets, and a “wash down” type of effect. In this scenario, the hydroponics system is really more of low pressure setup.

    Following this logic, and considering what you mention as to the “non-drip” component of the nozzles, providing the on time surpasses the prime time, then a mix of low and high pressure aeroponics can be found. This in fact does show significant promise, since penetration is certainly increased with larger droplets. Further, the prime/low pressure dwell period, will only contact the portion of the root directly facing the nozzle. Finally, with smaller orifices, such as on the 07-80, the pump has a greater restriction, which means the time from 0psi-80psi, will be reduced by 2x or better.

    Even more to consider, is that even if an accumulator tank and solenoid are added, there would still be a limited dwell time to account for. The big advantage of this method is preserving pump longevity, as it limits the amount of times the pump cycles from stationary to moving. In electrical motors, the increased energy needed to start them creates additional arcing of the contacts, and promotes premature failure. The other advantage of an accumulator tank, is that the priming time is drastically decreased.

    By my estimation, there are three ways to significantly reduce dwell/large droplet formation. First, individual solenoids for each nozzle (again just like a fuel injectors), could be used. Another possible solution, would be to have a time delay shroud acting as a block of the initial low pressure nozzle “spit”, that then moves out of the way when the nozzles are running at ample psi. A final option would be to have a nozzle chamber, that is fed to the grow chamber with a fan. Fan speed/volume could be tweaked to only carry certain sized droplets, and the remainder would return to the reservoir.

    I know “water injection” systems exist for cars, anyone game to do the research?

    • I imagine you must be getting a lot of water. Even with my smaller nozzles I get a lot and reduced my on times from 1 in 5 to 30 seconds and may go down to 15. I wanted to create a simple plug and play system any one could build so I intentionally left out using an accumulator tank and solenoids. It is probably the best way to go but I have very limited space so have not tried it yet. I cant measure droplet size but my nozzles produced a very fine mist with very few large drops.

  15. Newb questions : These might seem a bit elementary but I cant seem to reason them out in my mind.. How do you start the seeds and get them to the point that the roots are exposed and grown enough to go into a 3 inch net cup? Even in a rainforest 236 or whatever revision I am seeing the same problem ,, you have a seed and are wanting it to grow into a net cup? I can see the possibility with clones. However I will be starting with seeds. Would it be possible to get a basic nutrient schedule based upon the nutrients you use? I am new to aero and Hydro only grown outside in fields. I am going to be building this out and getting a rainforest 236 to start in ??? Or would you recommend and explain how to start from seeds with this system? Thank you for the info so far .. this is great stuff and I am truly excited about getting on of these systems up and running.

    • Great question! While I believe you could sprout seeds in paper towels and carefully transfer them over to inserts in net pots I don’t recommend it. The easiest and safest way is to use rockwool cubes or rapid rooters. HIS MAY HELP:
      The rainforest is great because you can raise clones,seedlings,veg and even flower in it so it allows you to have separate propagation and flowering areas or you could flower several plants in it. If you do decide to go that way I recommend running it on a timer at 1 on and 5 off and adjust up or down, most likely downwards a bit. If you are new to this it will give you great aeroponic results and because it is a hybrid with deep water culture and aeroponics it is safer. I would not recommend a high pressure build until you get some experience because shit can go south fast.

      I don’t really have a basic nute schedule other than 300ppm for seedlings, 600 and 800-1200 flower depending on strain. Bear in mind my water is very clean and tests 20 ppm others have water testing much higher at the tap. You will need a TDS and pH meter. Dutch Masters and Canna Aqua are both good nutes for aeroponics. I add CaliMagic at 3-5 ml gallon because I grow OG and OG hybrids that need extra. Others strains may not need it unless you are running RO water. Over time you will learn to read your plants and will know what they need. Less is more! It is better to underfeed than overfeed.

  16. Hey Steve,

    You’ve got the best HPA DIY I’ve seen yet. Problem is, living in Canada, the Tefen misting heads are not available to ship from and I can’t find them on Real shame because its the only thing I’m missing. Any suggestions or help?

    Not looking to grow weed but leafy greens and herbs for like basil, coriander and spinach.

  17. Very NICE Set UP!

    I got a few newbie questions for you… hope you don’t mind.

    1) Are you just doing this set up for cloning?
    2) How long have you been growing this way?
    3) Plans to put a accumulator tank into the system?
    4) Do you notice watering time increase as the plants get larger?

    I am trying to build a system that is reliable and I do have some concerns with the longevity. Have you had any issues so far?

    Anyways, really like your system! I really believe HPA is the way to go!

    • Very NICE Set UP!

      I got a few newbie questions for you… hope you don’t mind.
      There are no newbie or bad questions only people who fail because they think they are too smart to ask any.

      1) Are you just doing this set up for cloning?
      No I use it clone veg and flower.
      2) How long have you been growing this way?
      About 4 years.
      3) Plans to put a accumulator tank into the system?
      Not at this time, mostly because I have space issues. You can get by without one, but I would recommend it.
      4) Do you notice watering time increase as the plants get larger?
      Not really.

      I am trying to build a system that is reliable and I do have some concerns with the longevity. Have you had any issues so far?

      This system is reliable if you are willing to keep your reservoir clean and check your pH and TDS daily. If you are new to growing I would not recommend it as it is really more for advanced growers. Things happen very fast in aeroponics because there is no soil or media buffer. Also if you live in an area where power goes out often or for long periods of time and don’t have a backup skip this system. Forget vacations or 3 day weekends too.

      Definitely use a 10-50 micron filter over your intake even if you are going to use an inline filter. Keep the filter bag clean, wash it after each grow. I would paint the top of the totes to prevent algae growth. You will need to replace nozzles from time to time. They are only about $1.50 each. After several years without an accumulator the pumps still run great but seem to put out lower psi which I suspect is due to the diaphragm stretching from use. I also now use smaller nozzles, blue or white and a cycle time of 15-30 seconds on and 5 minutes off.

      Don’t mean to deter you but do want you to come into this with your eyes open. Hope this helps.

  18. I have a couple questions that were not addressed.

    1.) I have purchased what I now know as 3” foam cloning collars. What are the differences between clone type collars and growing collars? What are you using? I am assuming the hole in the center is a different diameter, and why couldn’t I just ream it our with a drill bit and use them?

    2.) You say you just use the system veg and flower cycles? Do you use all ten three inch pots at once, because that seems a little cramped for 10 full sized plants? How long are your grow cycles from seedling to harvest?

    3.) I have decided to go with the Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur Grow and Bloom Parts A & B pH perfect blend as to try to minimize the pH issues that arise. Do you test the ppm of the nutrient solution after you add the nutes? If so what should it be after? I will start by using 1/4 of the recommended dosing as you had mentioned. I also have ~62 ppm out of the tap, is 20 ppm considered the maximum allowable by most standards. Because I do not have a RO system in place yet, and will be buying distilled water in bulk at ~$1.00 a gallon. Are there any cheaper solutions that you have found?

    Well, that’s about it for now. Thanks for the valuable information you have imparted on to us, as I have been a geoponic gardener for a couple years now, I am ready to jump to the next level . I have skipped the intermediate stage of hydroponics, and decided to jump straight into the big leagues of high-pressure aeroponics. I do have backgrounds in plumbing, electrical, and am currently using this project for a senior project in my Electrical Engineering curriculum. I am designing the timers and other automated control systems for this project and am going to save big when it comes to the plug and play stuff as you have mentioned. I am hoping to use this information to get myself a job in the commercial herb industry, hoping to work with down to earth people, or anywhere I don’t have to wear a suit and tie.

    Again…Thanks, and Peace

    • I have a couple questions that were not addressed.

      1.) I have purchased what I now know as 3” foam cloning collars. What are the differences between clone type collars and growing collars? What are you using? I am assuming the hole in the center is a different diameter, and why couldn’t I just ream it our with a drill bit and use them?

      Usually cloning collars are 2″ and thicker and made to fit in a cloner without a net pot. Some people grow with them in a 2″ net pot but they are really too small to hold a larger pot. I just use 3″ pots and neoprene inserts for cloning and growing.

      2.) You say you just use the system veg and flower cycles? Do you use all ten three inch pots at once, because that seems a little cramped for 10 full sized plants? How long are your grow cycles from seedling to harvest?

      Actually I use these totes for cloning, vegging and flowering so the number of plants varies. Usually I flower with 4-6 plants in a tote but you could do more or less depending on strain and training. Seed to harvest varies by strain. Cut a couple of weeks off for clones. From seed to flower varies too. I have done everything from straight 12/12 from seed to 6-8 week veg before flower.

      3.) I have decided to go with the Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur Grow and Bloom Parts A & B pH perfect blend as to try to minimize the pH issues that arise. Do you test the ppm of the nutrient solution after you add the nutes? If so what should it be after? I will start by using 1/4 of the recommended dosing as you had mentioned. I also have ~62 ppm out of the tap, is 20 ppm considered the maximum allowable by most standards. Because I do not have a RO system in place yet, and will be buying distilled water in bulk at ~$1.00 a gallon. Are there any cheaper solutions that you have found?

      Always test ppm after adding nutes. With 62 ppm from the tap the water is good and you dont need RO water. Mine is 30 and I dont use R O. Just remember to factor it in. I go about 300ppm for young seedlings,600 for veg once they have at least 4 true leaves and about 800-1000 for flowerer depending on strain. I have used pH Perfect Connoisseur, works good but you still will need to check your pH daily. Learn to watch your plants, in time you will know when they are happy or when they need something.

      Well, that’s about it for now. Thanks for the valuable information you have imparted on to us, as I have been a geoponic gardener for a couple years now, I am ready to jump to the next level . I have skipped the intermediate stage of hydroponics, and decided to jump straight into the big leagues of high-pressure aeroponics. I do have backgrounds in plumbing, electrical, and am currently using this project for a senior project in my Electrical Engineering curriculum. I am designing the timers and other automated control systems for this project and am going to save big when it comes to the plug and play stuff as you have mentioned. I am hoping to use this information to get myself a job in the commercial herb industry, hoping to work with down to earth people, or anywhere I don’t have to wear a suit and tie.

      Funny, I pretty much skipped hydro too. Went from coco to aero. Right now I am back in coco because I want to learn a bit more about using benificials and organics. Plants do grow well but it is really slow compared to aero and dealing with coco and pots is a PITA. Actually I think aero is easier. Totally understand the tie thing too! Good luck!!

  19. Hi Steve,

    Not sure if I missed something somewhere along the line but I got the John Guest Tees and pro dew nozzles and the pump and all but the 3/8 OD white tubing just won’t go into any of them. It’s the same tubing you linked to above in your article but I got the white one instead of black. Did I miss something somewhere? Let me know because I want to start but this tubing has me blocked.

    Thanks again man,


    • Sorry. I used the black tubing. I assumed they were both the same size according to the specs. This is the first I have heard of this and quite a few people ordered the white tubing. Are you sure it’s 3/8 od they sent?If the white wont fit you can probably exchange it for the black though and get a refund.

  20. Steve, I’m trying to start my seedlings using Rockwool and a germination station with heat mat and dome. What I did is get the water to between ph 5.5-6.5, tossed the rock wool in that water for an hour or so, placed the seeds in rock wool and put in the germination station…is there a much better way to do things or is that the only way to go other than buying that rainforest system you mentioned in the comments?

    My HPA is all set up…just waiting on the seedlings. More lessons to learn from there on I guess. Only thing I did different is put 4 misters in my 63 Litres tote, one on each side of the tote to get better coverage. What do you think of that idea? Had to move my tote inlet line to the side to get the layout nice and evenly spaced.

    Thanks for this tutorial man, really couldn’t have done anything without it.

    • That is what I do when I start seeds. Do not put a cover over them! If things dry out just mist them. You can use rapid rooters too but they cost more. Ideally you can take clones while you are in veg and grow that way. If space is an issue you can wait till plants show sex before cloning so I often take clones in early flower but they do take a bit longer to root and you need to reveg them. Seeds are kind of a PITA so I mostly grow from clones unless I am trying out a new strain.

  21. Steve,

    What are your thoughts on how to do a remote reservoir?

    I’m working in a 3x3x6 tent and space is at a premium, but I’m unsure how to get the water back to a seperate reservoir without creating a DWC/Still water environment.

    The top 1ft of my tent has a filter and fan, add tote/Lights and I’d only be working with 3′ or so.

    • You are going to have to raise your totes so you have gravity feed back to the res.I understand height is an issue. Doesn’t have to be a lot even an inch or two.Just so you have tote outlet higher than res inlet. Aero doesn’t use a lot of water so I dont see any way to use a pump without it running dry.

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